Tongario River Trail |
I would recommend everyone I know and don’t know to travel
to New Zealand. At least once in a lifetime. We knew it is a beautiful country
but what we saw bowled us over. Perhaps because we were visiting in spring,
where there was bloom and waterfalls everywhere. Let me make an attempt to pen
down some of these. Though no amount of words and pictures can sum up even half
of what we experienced.
Walks and Cycling Trips: The NZ government
has done a fantastic job of preserving the beautiful country as well as making
it accessible for people to appreciate. They have created multiple walking and
cycling trails inside forests and around the hundreds of lakes that the country
is blessed with. Maps are freely available at information centres of nearby
towns that help you explore the area. We must have walked for around 100kms
taking umpteen trails over these days. Of these two were particularly
interesting, one at lake Tekapo, the Mt. John Summit Track that walks mostly
through open tussock lands ending with stunning 360 degree views over Lake
Tekapo, Lakes McGregor and Alexandrina, the Mackenzie Basin and across to the
Southern Alps. The other was Lake Rotopounamu Walk near Tongario that goes
around a lake nestled on the side of Mount Pihanga. We also did two cycling
trails – both of which were very good for those not used to cycling too much.
The Tongario river trail did a loop around the Tongario river passing sometimes through
forests and sometimes alongside green pastures of land. And the Queenstown trail went
around lake Wakatipu. We rode up to Frankton on a beautiful sunny day.
Windy and Wet |
Kayaking in lake Taupo: Not many people
were kayaking in NZ. Perhaps since the summer had not arrived. But on this
rainy windy day, we were pretty determined. Mike and Barb, whose place we put
up (Tongario Adventures), had Kayaks and they were very generous to offer it to us for free. Mike
even took the kayak with me up to the Taupo lake, a 100 yards from their house.
We first kayaked parallel to the beach until the end of the hill and then
turned into the river upstream. It was difficult owing to the winds, but we
went on. One side of the river had houses and the other had a hill. Families of
ducks swam close by, perturbed by us, the unusual visitors. When we got tired,
we turned around and the current made us drift slowly back into the lake.
Milford Sound Cruise:
If one were to ask me the number one highlight of the NZ trip, then I would
mention Milford Sound. Perhaps because it was a rainy day. We had booked
ourselves on this bus that picked us in the morning from our hotel and dropped
us at the cruise and return. On board was a very informative and enthusiastic
driver cum guide, Shelly. She tried to keep our spirits up in spite of the cold
and wet weather. But I guess the weather was a blessing in disguise. Owing to
the rains, the Sound was full of waterfalls. A mystique mist formed around the
mountains surrounding the Sound owing to which we were unable to see the top of
the mountain and it seemed like the water falls were plummeting from the
clouds. On a clear day a picture of the Sound will show multiple mountains one
behind other, stacked up as layers.
The surreal Milford Sound |
But since this was
a cloudy day, the same scene on a camera felt like a shaken photograph or
someone who needed to see an ophthalmologist as eyes saw hazy images. Was nature
playing games? It was an eerie feeling. “Did Lord Voldemort lived here?” Rupali
asked. I was so excited that I opened my shoes, folded my pants, put on the
poncho and went up to the top deck of the cruise. The winds were so strong that
it was difficult to stand without holding on to the rails. Rains splashed from
all sides and the poncho was no good. But the scene was stunning. As the cruise
went up close the mountains we saw a family of seals lazing on rocks,
unperturbed. One of the customary items on the cruise is that they move close
to one large waterfall – almost underneath. Owing to the rains the fall had
become even more rowdy and now the vapours from the falls were seeming like
sharp water pellets. Damn the clothes and the camera. While Milford Sound will
be stunning even on a bright sunny day, the rains added immense mystic and
enigma to the place and made it incredible.
At "The Find" pub in Queenstown |
Queenstown: This is some place where
you should plan at least 3 full days. It’s a beautiful small hilly town with a
population of 28K people, most of who I guess work for tourists one way or the
other. Also called the adventure capital of the world, it offers a lot of
activities for the enthusiast – Skydive, Bungee, Swings, Jet Ski, Parasailing,
Skiing, Rafting etc plus a host of softer options such as Cycling, Milford
Sound tour, LOTR tour, Wine Tours, Gondola Ride, etc. We were in Queenstown for
four days and did some of these adventure trips and tours. On other times we
mostly walked, sat in front of lake Wakatipu sipping wine, visited pubs and ate
at Indian and Thai restaurants.
Almost failed
Skydiving trip: Skydive was our No.1 highlight of the trip. There are three
places to skydive in NZ: Queenstown, Glenorchy (40mins from Queenstown) and
Wanaka (an hour’s drive). They are more or less similarly priced but we chose
Glenorchy, the place were a lot of LOTR was shot, since it was most picturesque.
Since Skydive is very much weather sensitive, we decided to wrap it up the first
day itself. Upon reaching the dive zone, we were briefed by these cool looking
divers (instructors) who had done some 4000-5000
dives. NZ law requires one to have minimum of 1000 dives to be able to be an
instructor which though expensive, makes it one of the safest places to dive.
The guy who was to be Rupali’s instructor, Sasha, had taken Sonam Kapoor on the
dive. Our group consisted of three men who wanted to dive from 12000 feet and
us who wanted to dive from 15000 feet.
Just before the failed Glenorchy dive |
Since their aircraft was small, they
took the three of them first. We saw them getting ready and boarding the
aircraft. After a few minutes we saw them jumping from the aircraft and their
shoot opening. They landed right in front of us, exhilarated. It was our turn
now. We were excited and anxious in equal measure. My instructor was the guy
who was briefing us, who also seemed to be the most dude, experienced type. Rupali
went into the aircraft first and I was next. When we were up in the air, I
could see why people said that Glenorchy was probably the best place to dive. While
the scenery was stunning from the aircraft, my mouth was running dry. I wanted
to sip some water. My instructor kept pumping my guts by some small talk. He pointed
out where LOTR was shot. Meanwhile he was constantly talking to the pilot in
some sign language, which I later understood, to be able to find the wind speed
down there. When we reached 7000 feet, the pilot passed him a note that wrote
20 which meant the wind speed down there was 20knots. Anything above 25knots
was not safe to dive. As we reached 11000 feet and the aircraft became colder,
they were talking still and passing notes. His last note read 24. My instructor
took the decision. We had to abandon the dive. All the way on the descend, he
kept telling that he was sorry but it was not safe for us and that is why he
had to take the call. I was partially releaved that we did not have to dive but
equally disappointed that having come so close, we had to abandon it which
meant that we have to go through this ordeal again. This disappointment kept
growing as we headed back to Queenstown. I was thinking of those three guys who
dived just ahead of us. We were really unlucky. We booked again for the next
day for 9AM.
The
next day while we did not have to come all the way to Glenorchy, the dive was
cancelled again and again on the third day. We made an instant decision to take
the Queenstown dive since we saw that the weather was quite OK in the city and
the Queenstown team was diving. We booked ourselves for the 1330HRS dive, the
earliest available for that day. At the said hour, our dive was cancelled
again! The bloody wind had picked up again.
I was really disappointed. There were four highlights of our
trip at the planning stage – the Tongario Alpine crossing, rated by many as the
best one day hike in the world, the skydive, the glacier walk and the
Tranzalpine train journey. We were unable to do the Tongario hike as it had
snowed, unexpectedly, and therefore the hike was not feasible for armatures.
The previous evening we came to know that Franz Joseph Glacier one day walk has
stopped as the bottom of the glaciers are no more so the hike is not feasable.
Now if we were unable to dive as well, we would have not done three of the four
highlights initially planned. What a bummer!
Shitting bricks... Why is Rupali curious? |
Just when we were taking a refund, we learnt that the Wanaka
team were still diving. Apparently, if its the Westerly winds that are blowing
on a particular day, they first reach Glenorchy and then Queenstown and if they
turn, they would reach Wanaka. We booked ourselves immediately for Wanaka. I
was only 50% sure that we will be able to dive that afternoon as I kept looking
at the trees and leaves that seem to be swinging softly with the wind. We
reached Wanaka and quickly got inducted and dressed. This time however, we
booked ourselves for the 12000 feet, sensing the bad omen. We boarded quickly
and were up and it was time for the mouths to go dry again. For some reason I
did not find the Wanaka team to be very professional, compared to the Glenorchy
guys. But anyways, we were up.
In the flight were 9 people (4 teams) besides
the pilot. The extra person was another diver who went up to take the video of
this guy Chinese guy jumping. There are two types of videos you can opt for –
one that is from a camera stuck on the wrist of your instructor (the cheaper
option, $150, wherein your instructor puts the camera on once in a while) and
another if you want full video where another diver dives alongside you and is
always in front of you to take a full video ($250). The Chinese had opted for
the full video. This camera guy was super cool. In between when we were say at
8000-10000 feet, he opened the door to do guess what? Throw his chewing gum
away! At 12000 feet, he finally opened the door fully as a strong wave of
chilly wind swept inside the aircraft. He lunged out like people do in Mumbai
locals while the Chinese and his instructor got ready and went up to the edge
of the aircraft. The instructor and camera guy made signs and wooo... jumped right
in front of me. I was probably shitting in my pants as it was my turn. My
instructor asked me to move forward. As I moved closer to the edge, I saw the
earth below for a second. The instructor was making some adjustments, we were
not abandoning this time and were indeed jumping. I was too frightened to keep
my eyes open. I guess I lost my balls for those few seconds. I closed my eyes
and kept my head on the right shoulder of the instructor as told, and then
before I realised I was flying. Scared to death I could sense the chilly breeze hitting my
face at 200kmph.
May be 10 seconds after dive, in free fall |
I opened my eyes a couple of seconds later and what I saw was
absolutely stunning. As if in an instant bliss replaced fear. I was absorbed by
the beauty I saw below. Mountains, lakes, farms all etched as if it were a
child’s painting. I tried to look left and right and absorb as much as I could
see. While the wind kept hitting the face at the crazy speed, the feeling was
so overwhelming that I just wanted to take as much as I could. After about 45 second
free fall, the shoot opened. Yes it did! And then as if the earth came to s
standstill. From 200kmph, we were, what felt like zero speed in like four
seconds. It was so sudden that I felt that we had landed! Once the shoot opened
my instructor and I were able to talk. He showed me the topography of the place
– the Roys peak, Mt Hyde, Mt Aspiring, the Wanaka Lake, Lake Hawea, the Wanaka
River etc. He then asked if I wanted to swing to which I said a big NO. I am
not a swing person – please! Now that the shoot opened and I was offered
another chance to live, I don’t want to swing. I realised how much I hated
amusement parks. But thats OK. I wanted
this to last. I was absorbing the splendour around me. I saw other divers below
me – one of who could be Rupali. It seemed that for a few minutes we were not
moving at all. The wind was getting strong. The only way to go down was to
swing. He told me that he would take small swings to which I agreed. Slowly
after a lot of effort from his side, I guess, we were moving down. When we
finally reached the ground there were four five people from his team waiting
for us. Look on their face showed that our dive could have become a concern
soon. But yes I was alive, in one piece. I saw Rupali down looking very happy.
We hugged and kissed at this exhilarating experience, after four cancellations.
An item ticked off our bucket list!
Glacier Hiking @ Franz Joseph: While
the full day glacier walks had been closed, one could still do half day Heli-hikes.
The way this works is that you board a chopper that takes you right up to the
glacier and from there you hike up along with a guide. We booked ourselves for
the first flight. (Always do weather related trips first thing in the day. The weather
changes fast and usually gets worse as the day progresses). We were a group of
10 who were given a proper gear and crampons. The chopper ride was short and in
no time we were on the glacier where our guide was waiting for us – in T-shirt
and shorts with an axe. His look kept me puzzled for the next few minutes as I
put on my crampons. Finally, we started our hike. It was not as adventurous as
I would have thought. The guide uses the axe to pave the way for the group
which makes the climb relatively easy. The glacier however was a beauty. It had
shades of white and blue. Then there were the crevices of different formations.
During our hike we also saw a small glacier explosion – where part of a glacier
breakaway like a thunder. The trip was so well timed that just when it ended,
it started to rain.
Clicked from the Train |
Tranzalpine Train
Journey: This was the final leg of our trip. The kiwis run some great
trains; particularly the Tranzalpine, Northern Explorer and the Coastal
Pacific. We took the Tranzalpine from Greymouth to Christchurch. This was our
last day in NZ and we had seen so much beauty that I was wondering if the train
journey would add anything that we had not already seen. For the first hour or
so, the train passed alongside the Waimakariri River and reached Arthur Pass
station after passing through a 42km Otira tunnel built in 1923. Up to this
point, the journey was nice but nothing to write home about. It was after this
point when the train passed through the gorges and the farmlands of the
Canterbury plains that the scenery became extraordinary. I went up to the open
board at the back of the train and was busy clicking pictures. There were few
people on the open deck since the train was not even 50% full. (If you travel
in peak season, you may get a place to sit but the open board will be packed.) Owing
to spring, it became even more dramatic as Pohutukawa trees and Kowhais flowers
were blooming. There were shades of green that one cannot imagine. Mountains,
rivers, flowers and trees – all in one! Highly recommended.
While we visited Roturua's Geysers and the Buried village and also spent some time in Auckland and Christchurch, we wont put them under highlights. Not because they were not good, but perhaps not good enough to seek a place in this list.
Anyways, we think we will go back again, may be after a few years. We
still have to do the Tongario crossing, Milford on a sunny day, Abel Tasman
National Park etc and perhaps repeat a few things once again.